Talkin’ Shop: Elma Blint October 19, 2009

I ran into jewelry designer Elma Blint at the vendors market at Madison Square Park a few days ago and we spoke of the relative merits of the the nearby Shake Shack (the burgers, she proclaimed, “excellent”) She then delightedly shared the news that her 6-foot-2 thirteen year-old son, is one of the top three students in New York State.  It made me smile, because it is, of course impressive and her pride infectious, but also it reminded me of the passage of time.  I first met a very pregnant Elma when I happened across her chic, Upper West Side jewelry boutique, Amle Arte when I was on the prowl for an Essence shoot.  We discovered that we knew a few people in common, that we were Brooklyn neighbors and we vowed to stay in touch. I remember her boundless energy during the last days of pregnancy as she nurtured the nascent shop as well as the boy within, Tyler.

Elma eventually moved her business to the then-burgeoning, acronymic shopping district, NoLita and focused on developing her Elma Blint line of jewelry. She has since brought another son, Kyle, into the world and moved her base of operations to Fort Greene, where she also participates in the much ballyhooed weekend market, Brooklyn Flea.

Most offerings are available in both 14k gold as well as budget-friendly sterling silver.  She’s discovered that many of her customers, have, as does she, a small wrist.  Her specialty bangles are engineered to accommodate the diminutive size even when one’s hands are large.  Her “ID” bracelets can be customized (GQ mag snapped some up) and her bar ring gives the illusion of a multiple ring without forcing the fingers into confinement.  Her streamlined designs make for the perfect modern touch to any look.

The beautiful designer at her seasonal market stall at Madison Square Park.

Some of Elma’s favorites from the current collection include the perfect-fit organic bangles, bar ring and her nod to our home borough, Brooklyn.

Proud as a… October 12, 2009

Peacocks, the males of the peafowl species (the females are peahens) have long been glorified for their beauty and the spectacular brilliance of their plumage.  The motif is one that fashion — for the home as well as the body — revisits quite frequently and last Spring’s love affair with the beauteous bird (think Matthew Williamson at H&M) has continued on into fall.

1. Dress, Milly at Bergdorf Goodman 2. Dress, Byron Lars Beauty Mark 3. Notecard, Mulberry Muse 4. 1970′s peacock and pheasant feather purse (a gift from art director Jan DeChabert) 5. Rubber boots, Chooka at Piperlime 6. 1900′s England, Art Nouveau brass tray, Ebay 7. Decoupage platter, John Derian 8. Wrap dress, Epaulet 9. Feather motif rug, Neiman Marcus 10. Cocktail ring, Topshop 11. Silk chiffon blouse, Cynthia Steffe 12. Vintage brooch, Hooti Couture 13. Alligator & feather clutch, Paige Gamble 14. Dress, Giambattista Valli at Bergdorf Goodman 15. Scarf, Nordstrom 16. Umbrella, Raindrops 17. Tulip dress, Christian Siriano and “Slither” boots, Christian Siriano for Payless 18. Digital print, Carambatack at Etsy 19. Hair Ornament, Kathelonious, also at Etsy 20. Fowl and feather images are oft requested for tattoos. This one from Flickr is particularly clean and lovely 21. Evening looks from Giambattista Valli 22. A gorgeous peacock I had the pleasure of meeting in Sydney, Australia struts his stuff.

Talkin’ Shop: Apartment 48 October 11, 2009

Fifteen years ago, an unassuming young man of good taste transformed a former beauty salon — a long, narrow underground lair–into distinct rooms to display home furnishings befitting each.  The vintage crib in the nursery held colorful, charming goodies for kids; a claw-foot tub housed a myriad of bath accessories; the inviting dining table was bedecked with swoon-worthy dinnerware, you get the picture.  The young man was Rayman Boozer, the space he dubbed the eponym Apartment 48 for its then-address at 48 W. 17th Street.

I shopped there frequently for my home, for gifts, as well as to score interesting props for photo shoots. It truly became a go-to shop and I’d look forward to seeing what vignettes Rayman would create next as he changed the decor of each room as new merchandise inspired him. Shopping in a subterranean space was never a deterrent for me, but Rayman longed for light and more square footage for his growing business, which includes interior design services.  When his lease was up, he closed up shop and warehoused his merchandise until he found the right space, which, as luck would have it, was just down the block from the original boutique.  He wished, “let there be light,” et voilà, a vast windowed storefront became available.

The capacious showroom at 12 W. 17th still stocks accoutrement for the well-appointed home, though it is now in a light airy setting that encourages lingering and a chance to see just what everyone from Met Home to Elle Decor has been buzzing about.

Proprietor and Interior Designer, Rayman Boozer surrounded by some his current favorites in stock: clockwise from left, Ikat napkins, $12 each; Gold-leaf branches & birds bowl, $98; various wallpapers, price on request; Japanese ceramic cups, $14 each; cast resin mounted antlers, $38-$75 depending on size.

The prized windowed facade.

I’m a fiend for color so right now I’m loving the whimsy of the striped crochet bunny, $24 and the ingenious design of this nesting set, $59. A perfect solution for space-strapped kitchens, this rainbow stack nestles measuring cups into a small mixing bowl, a colander, a strainer and the anchoring large mixing bowl.

Apartment 48

12 W. 17th Street

New York City

212-807-1391

Well Warranted Shine: Isabel Toledo at FIT September 18, 2009

Masterful designer Isabel Toledo may be best known for the Inaugural ensemble she created for First Lady Michelle Obama, but the self-described “seamstress” has been honing her glorious craft since childhood and presenting professionally since 1985.

“I really love the technique of sewing more than anything else. The seamstress is the one who views fashion from the inside! That’s the art form, really—the technique of how it’s done.” Isabel Toledo in a 1989 interview with curator Dr. Valerie Steele

Though the Obama commission was certainly a feather in her cap, it did not inspire the retrospective of her work currently up at the Museum at F.I.T, Isabel Toledo: Fashion From the Inside Out. Marking her 25 years in business, the exhibition, planned a year ago, is an extensive look at her impressive body of work and the collaborative process she shares with her husband of 26 years, illustrator, Ruben Toledo.

The show is organized thematically by the brilliant concepts which reoccur in her work: Organic Geometry, Shadow, Suspension, Liquid Architecture, Shape, Manipulated Surfaces, and Origami.

Unconcerned with fads and trends, the ever elegant Isabel creates fashion that is timeless. Most would be hard pressed to put a date on her designs, perhaps only those followers with an encyclopedic knowledge of her trajectory. The Isabel Toledo garments I pulled for fashion shoots in the mid 90′s would still look and feel entirely appropriate for now.

Though the online presentation is wonderfully executed, the in-person experience is a must for anyone who enjoys fashion, art and the collaborative process. There are just a few days left, the show closes on Saturday, September 26.

From Organic Geometry: Jellyfish blouses and dresses, Ombré silk chiffon. Spring/Summer 1995 Photo, Karen L. Willis.

From Shadow: Red Neck dress, Black lace, organdy, and nude and red chiffon. Spring/Summer 1998 Photo, William Palmer ©MFIT.

From Suspension: Hermaphrodite dress, Garnet silk taffeta. Circa 2005 Photo, William Palmer ©MFIT

From Liquid Architecture: Tequila Sunrise gown, Coral, stone, and olive rayon jersey, and elephant gray, double-faced silk satin. Fall/Winter 1994/1995 Photo, Karen L. Willis.

From Shape: Butterfly Wingspan jacket, Caramel lace, black chiffon, and silk tulle trim. Spring/Summer 2006 Photo, William Palmer ©MFIT

From Manipulated Surfaces: Broomstick Librarian shirtwaist dresses , Undyed silk pongee. Spring/summer 2008 Designed for Anne Klein and hand-painted by Ruben Toledo Photo, William Palmer ©MFIT.

Ruben and Isabel making adjustments to The Dress, which seems to have had breast pockets at the time.

From Origami: Lemongrass dress and coat. Lemongrass wool lace, silk tulle, and silk crepe lining. Dress worn by Mrs. Obama on the day of her husband’s inauguration as President of the United States, January 2009. Lent by First Lady Michelle Obama.

The Toledos, spent from setting up the exhaustive exhibit.

The Museum at FIT

27th Street at 7th Avenue

Tues – Fri Noon – 8pm
Saturday 10am – 5pm
Closed Sundays, Mondays, and legal holidays.

View a video clip from New York Magazine below:

Isabel Toledo: Fashion from the Inside Out/New York Magazine

Talkin’ Shop: Cozbi March 20, 2009

Upon meeting the alliteratively named Cozbi Cabrera, one is struck by the serenity of her face and the luminous glow of a woman at peace. In a glorious example of following one’s bliss, she left a successful career as an art director at Sony Music twelve years ago to “discover, create and share pockets of grace and beauty.” With her exquisite Muñecas (“dolls” en Español, a nod to her Honduran heritage) she did just that. Crafted by hand with love and exacting attention to detail, las muñecas are born of the magical union of vintage textiles, paint, and hand dyes with the gift of the stitch in hand rolled hems, delicate embroidery and intricate beadwork. So beautifully attired are the dolls that collectors began to ask Cozbi to create clothing for humans.

Thank goodness she consented. Constructed with the same care and couturier details seen in the dolls, the Cozbi line for women features simple, elegant silhouettes evocative of a bygone era yet perfectly suited for our times. Natural fibers abound: crisp cottons, sumptuous silks and transitional weight wools with lovely touches like contrast stitching and pintucking.

In kindergarten, when her peers were likely producing stick figures, Cozbi’s teacher lauded the young artist for the fully articulated faces in her drawings. The creative impulse runs deep within her and has found its outlet variously through music packaging, drawing, painting and sewing.

In 2004, Cozbi opened the doors to a delightful space in which to create as well as sell the fruits of her myriad labors. Whimsical pillows share space with quilts and charming baby bibs; honey-sweet togs for tykes hang near the frocks and accessories for women and at the antique wrap desk, beneath the large alphabet quilt–quite apropos–are the many books illustrated by Cozbi. The shop itself is an oneiric patchwork of this artist’s many gifts, a treasure trove of handmade goodness in Carroll Gardens.

Do stop by this weekend (March 21-22, 11am – 7pm) to meet the gentle-spirited Cozbi and discover her many talents at her Spring Sale Event. Mention pendulum and/or bring a friend to receive 20% off your purchase.

The radiant Cozbi A. Cabrera.

Some of the books she’s illustrated.

Muñecas dulces…

And their meticulous embellishments.

Gossamer fabrics and delicate pleating.

Feminine, pretty and thoroughly modern: a highlight from the Spring collection.

Cozbi

530 Court Street

(between Huntington and W. 9th Streets)

Brooklyn, NY 11231

718.246.7960

Off the Hook March 15, 2009

At the dawn of the new millennium, Atlantan Ladene Lenora Clark began crocheting as a constructive pastime and found her passion. After immersing herself in classes she moved from making hats and scarves for friends to creating wow-worthy garments for herself that would garner interest everywhere she went. Soon the commissions followed. Not yet a decade since she first put hook to yarn, she has relocated to Brooklyn, New York and is beginning to make some noise here for her traffic-stopping creations.

Though the stunning Belinda Baidoo and her endless legs rocked Ladene’s short jumpsuit to willowy perfection in a shoot I styled for Ebony, I must admit that Ladene herself, wears her own work like no other, as the staggering tableau of shots on her website will attest. Her striking face, strong, lean body and that unbelievable network of locks: thick, sculptural ropes (think the awesome creations of artist Chakaia Booker done with hair) make for unforgettable images.

From Ladene’s latest collection: Belinda Baidoo for Ebony. Photo by Otten.

The striking designer herself.

Talkin’ Shop: DeniseKerr.com March 5, 2009

In all the years I’ve known her, I can probably count on one hand the number of times I’ve seen Denise Kerr when she was not fully ensconced in some artistic endeavor.  A compulsive creator, her nimble fingers are constantly engaged in the making of something be it a lovingly pieced quilt, hand-knit kimono, fabulous leather handbag or beautiful hand crafted jewelry.  A consummate observer and connoisseur of great form, her eye fixes on an object of interest and the decoding begins–the how of its creation.  A perpetual student, she learns technique.

Her paisley-esque ink “doodles,” reminiscent of henna tattoo patterns (which she has also mastered) have given rise to her collection of “coin” pendants, Strength, Courage and Wisdom which are now available online at her new Etsy boutique. Though pendulum typically highlights a bricks-and-mortar shop in the Talkin’ Shop feature, I wanted to spread the word to those like me who miss her presence on the scene since she closed her Park Slope emporium, Beryl, nearly two years ago.

True to the handcrafted ethic of Etsy, DeniseKerr.com features artisanal jewelry  inspired by simple organic forms and crafted, carved or etched in Denise’s favorite rose gold (though also available in yellow, white or green gold.)  Her pieces are at their essence, spiritual in nature.  The powerful yet unobtrusive adornments, especially her pendants, are imbued with a talismanic quality that make them become never-take-them-off signature pieces.

Ink “doodle” courtesy of Denise Kerr.

Strength, Courage and Wisdom pendants, DeniseKerr.com

Talkin’ Shop: Trudy Miller Layers January 27, 2009

Self-described Solutionista, Trudy Miller refuses to be pigeon-holed into choosing a single medium to express her theories on creative problem solving. Though she’s lectured widely in the disciplines of Architecture and Interiors (at the Parsons Schools of Constructed Environments and Design Strategies as well as the California College of the Arts, Department of Architecture) she’s expanded her reach into fashion with multi-purpose pieces which streamline the very act of dressing. By “designing flexible apparel, furniture, and interiors that solve the ultimate puzzle: how to do more with less,” she embraces a utilitarian, conservationist chic.

Her Brooklyn shop, Trudy Miller Layers, brings her design theories into practicable view with her easy-care, easy-to-wear clothing “systems” and mobile, multi- functional furniture. By paring down what we consume, she believes, we create more time to enjoy our lives and the earth we protect by reducing waste.

This Wednesday, from 7-9pm, the shop presents Form Follows Idea: Anticipating Change:

With rising environmental concerns and steadily decreasing natural resources, it is becoming more apparent that technology alone will not be able to solve our most pressing problems, and that there are some fundamental adjustments that will have to be made to our social and cultural practices. Many designers are electing to use the current challenges we are facing as a means of moving us forward, by designing hybrid products with a mindful eye on the future. The January exhibit will feature the work of two such designers: Andre Dettler and Trudy Miller.

Photos courtesy of Trudy Miller.

Trudy Miller Layers

394 Atlantic Avenue at Bond

Brooklyn, New York

718.855.8780

Announcing Full Circle Six January 26, 2009

New year, new president, new endeavors! I am delighted to announce my partnership with a group of wonderful women as we inaugurate Full Circle Six, a collective of lifestyle professionals–an interior designer, a personal chef, a concierge, a fashion stylist, an organizer and a wellness expert–at the ready to help address your lifestyle needs. Visit our website, http://fullcircle6.com to learn more about who we are and how we work.

From left, Annie Tse, interior designer; Vanessa Bush, chef; Dina Farrugia, concierge; Sharon Pendana, fashion stylist; Jen Doman, organizer and Lindsay Messina, wellness expert. Photo by Erin Patrice O’Brien.

Presidential Tees January 19, 2009

On this day when we commemorate the life and legacy of the Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., I am pleased to announce the launch of a line of t-shirts celebrating his successor to the Dream, Barack Obama, on the eve of his inauguration to the 44th Presidency of the United States of America. In collaboration with the design studio, Chemistry, we present Presidential Tees, two type-driven styles in subtle homage to our new commander-in-chief.

Check them out at http://chmstry.com/shop

Rick Ramsey rocks the Forty four. Photo by Frederick V. Nielsen