Archive for the ‘Costume’ Category

The Trove: Erin Robinson
July 23, 2011

We’ve relocated! View Erin’s updated story at The Trove



























With schoolgirls in Banda Village, Rwanda.
Erin Robinson loves summer thunderstorms and she got one as we chatted in her childhood home in Washington, DC over the July Fourth weekend, her sweeping gestures and sound effects underscored by the distant thunder and gentle rain. We noshed on fresh fruit and spoke of mutual travel glories: the spirit-lift from burning the Mexican tree resin Copal; houseboating in Kerala and bonding with rescued baby elephants. Her lovely mom Dianne played with Erin’s three-year-old niece Madison; her hospitable dad Harry made it back just before the rains after a round of golf. “We moved to this house when I was in first grade,” she says of the Tudor where she and sisters Kia and Leigh were raised. “I love the neighborhood we grew up in. All the kids would play dodge ball or foursquare or freeze tag and when the sun set we knew it was time to go home. I’d say 70% of the friends I have today are people I grew up with.” The Robinsons of Shepherd Park: Harry, Erin, Dianne, Kia Winlock and Leigh Warfield. When she wasn’t outside playing she was inside creating. From the age of two-and-half, her mom says “she would just sit and draw.” Erin recalls making shoes for her younger sisters out of the cardboard inserts from her father’s laundered dress shirts. “I would trace their feet for the soles, put labels in them and punch holes in the tops to lace them with ribbon. I was about eleven.” She declared she wanted to be a fashion designer, an illustrator or, like many children, a veterinarian. Her grandmother sent her to the Corcoran School of Art for Saturday classes from seventh to ninth grades. By high school veterinary science wasn’t a thought. “I had the Beverly Johnsons and Imans, the Gia Carangis and Janice Dickinsons pasted on my walls. I was obsessed with the movie Fame, saw it about 5 times. I really wanted to go to Duke Ellington School of the Arts but my parents thought I was going to be dancing on the lunch room tables, so I got sent to the nuns at Academy of the Holy Names instead. Upon graduation, Grandma once again advocated for her as an artist, sending her to Parsons School of Design in Paris for the summer. “I lived in the dorm and took illustration with Albert Elia, one of my favorite teachers.  I excelled in it. It was amazing.” Erin is ever grateful to her grandmother who passed away just days after she returned. She attended her father’s alma mater, Howard University, where he has held the posts of Vice President of the University as well as Dean and Professor of Urban Design in the School of Architecture and Planning. Her parents may have been cautious in their schooling preferences, but as Erin says “they were insanely nurturing. Markers, papers, triangles, whatever I needed,they provided.” That included a summer program the following year at Parsons in New York, where she’d wanted to live since she was nine. Deciding that Howard wasn’t the place for her, she set her sights on attending Parsons full time. “I was thrilled when I got that acceptance letter!” she exclaims. She lived with relatives on the Upper West Side and eventually moved with a roommate to a tiny apartment on Waverly and Perry in Greenwich Village. “It was a four-story walk-up, I had a fold-out chair bed and a little half-refrigerator and we thought, This is fantastic! ” She would then establish a long relationship with the great borough of Brooklyn where we met long ago through our dear friend Barb Chennault. Erin’s professional foray into fashion was designing sweaters for the Jaclyn Smith Collection, a Kmart property. Over a storied career with stints at the likes of Kikit and Abercrombie & Fitch among others she came full circle to become the vice-president of the baby division of Kmart/Sears Holdings, Inc.
With an eye on costume design, she decided to move to Los Angeles in 1992. “When you’re in your twenties you’re fearless, I didn’t have a pot to piss in, but I was going,” she says. Armed with optimism and a $500 parental subsidy, off she went. Soon after, she secured a job building costumes on the popular sketch comedy In Living Color where Barb worked in the wardrobe department.
From Fire Marshall Bill to Wanda, making costumes there “was like Halloween arts and crafts, ” she recalls. ” I mean it wasn’t couture, it was more like where’s the stapler? Hot glue gun? Maybe a couple of stitches?’ she laughs. “It was a career highlight, that job. I am still very close to the people I met there. There was a very small black wardrobe community in LA, we’d always look out for each other. The hours were crazy, but it was a blast! She left behind the grind of TV/film production to return to New York where she began her career in childrenswear with Baby Gap. Why kidswear? “Women’s is so nit-picky with 5 million different opinions,” she says. “Baby is sweet, cute, a lot of fun. You don’t have to be so serious.” That doesn’t mean she didn’t work hard. “I worked my behind off. It exposed me not only to some amazing, talented people but also to travel: Hong Kong, Europe and Tokyo.” During her seven-year tenure she designed newborn as well, but managerial differences sent her packing, at least temporarily, to fervent freelancing and traveling.  “I was hustling. I was like you’re gonna work this then you’re gonna get on an airplane.” Hired to revamp the Kmart brand, former Gap Executive Vice President Lisa Schultz tapped Erin to update the baby division. They literally did from the ground up out of Lisa’s apartment until the Midwest-based company secured New York offices. “It gave me this opportunity to utilize all my skills. It was insane at times but so creative. I’m proud of what we established.”

Beckoned by the bay.

As the business grew, so did corporate intervention. “I felt myself getting swallowed up, like I was drowning there and I just needed a change.” While in Hawaii for a wedding, she saw people cliff jumping in Waimea Bay and decided to go for it. She fretted a bit but found encouragement in the voices of kids shouting “lady, don’t look down, just jump.” She did. “It was like a cleansing, a baptism. When I surfaced I was on an adrenaline high and I set a date in my head and a plan in motion: this time next year you are going to be out.”

“My home is special to me, it is my sanctuary, It took me a long time to get it just as I liked it.”  But she packed up her life, gave up her space, and lived out of bags as she plotted her sabbatical to decompress, refuel and serve– perhaps in the Congo. She remembers sharing her plan with her mother. “My mom is really strong, protective and stoic. The look I saw in her face –the fear– broke my heart, but ultimately she offered her complete support.” Her father didn’t take to the idea as easily but once he came around he jumped into action suggesting items for her pack. “I actually found it quite comical and endearing. He made sure I was set and “saw me off at the airport with my little orange backpack.” Banda Village, Nyungwe Rainforest. She flew into Kigali, capital of genocide-ravaged Rwanda. “You feel the veil of heaviness of what took place. It’s hard to come across anyone that was not affected in some way.” Thwarted by advisories to stay out of the region, her plan to serve in the DRC was reconfigured to join Peace Corps workers by volunteering with in Banda Village. Walking through town. Aware of and grateful for her life’s privilege she wanted to somehow give back and as an African American woman to dispel the notion of the white savior. With her light complexion and green eyes the villagers called her mzungu— white person. For a girl raised in 1970’s Chocolate City, to be considered anything other than black took her aback. “Nitwa Erin,” my name is Erin, she asserted. Sustenance. During her stay, she assisted in any way she could from serving nutrient-rich Susomna to the malnourished children to painting illustrations of vocabulary words on the walls of the schoolroom. As she painted she played Brazilian music, a Pied Piper’s call to a quartet of young village girls, who came and doodled on the blackboard as she worked. Moved by the rhythm, their tiny hips started to sway. Erin will never forget the children’s stories of survival, like that of eight-year-old miracle, Rebecca. The back of her head is deeply scarred from a long-ago baboon attack. She’d been in the fields with her older siblings when aggressive baboons descended from the forest. Frightened, her siblings ran to get their parents, leaving the three-year-old behind. When they returned to the scene, Rebecca was gone. The beasts had carried her off, mauled her and left her for dead. It’s incredible that she survived and that her parents were able to find her. Of her new friends Erin says, “I want them to know I care, that it wasn’t a one-shot deal.”  She plans to return with clothing, necessities and prints of the many beautiful images she snapped. Bandan beauty. Heading north to the Virungas, a cluster of volcanoes bordering Rwanda, Uganda and the DRC, the trek was literally and figuratively breathtaking. The high altitude left Erin breathless as did the incredible vistas and the origin of the Nile. “We hung out with the gorillas– the original fam. They were picking and scratching and farting,” she chuckles. Up Virunga Mountain. Next stop, Nairobi, Kenya where she visited the animal orphanages, getting up close and personal with the endangered monkeys, giraffes, cheetahs and elephants. She then went to neighboring Kibera, originally developed by the British as a forest settlement for Nubian soldiers returning home after service in World War I. Today the impoverished residents live in squalid conditions. As Erin’s guide led her through the muck and filth to the slum’s center, she felt afraid for the first time on her trip.  He sensed her fear, looked at her very directly and said “Don’t be scared. We are not criminals, we are just very, very poor.” She was deeply moved and tried to hide her tears.  “Will you come back? “ he asked.  He found something on the ground to write down an email address.  She’s since written but received no reply. One of the many beautiful children of Kibera. From the motherland to Indonesia, the leg of her journey designed to “get balanced again… Bali is spiritual, so beautiful it’s ridiculous.” She began each day in meditation; on Mondays and Saturdays she took life drawing classes, something she hadn’t done since her Parsons days and she spent her first ever Christmas away from her family. “I stayed a month, but I could live there,” she says dreamily. In Bali, I cared for myself inside and out. I had an aura and I truly felt beautiful.” A morning prayer; a beautiful drawing. She left the calm for the cacophony of Delhi, teeming with people, livestock, dust and risky driving. “India is where I confronted myself and it was hard. A Delhi wedding. “They party!” She was glad to connect with her friend, travel writer Jonathan Yevin who traverses the globe with all he needs tucked into the pockets of his cargo pants. They took the no-frills option from Delhi to Agra, the second-class train, made the requisite pilgrimage to the Taj Mahal and were invited to the nearby ultra-luxe hotel Oberoi Amarvilas for a tour and lunch. “ So we walked into the Oberoi, these two little raggedy vagabonds.” As at the Taj, there was a glaring juxtaposition of opulent beauty within the gates and extreme poverty just outside. Jonathan and Erin auto-rickshaw through Agra. A Brahman bull and petals at the feet of Ganesh at the Taj Mahal. In Jaipur, she felt a surge of creative energy. “It inspired me. Between the gold leaf and the textures and the walls, I designed a line of dresses. Jaipuri adornment on walls, domes even the camels. On the backwaters of the southern state of Kerala, home of “the nicest people ever,” she and a friend rented a houseboat under the palms as everyone back home in the eastern US was inundated with snow. Glimpses of Kerala. At the start of her adventure some questioned the wisdom of giving up her VP gig and fabulous two bedroom loft with Dad’s Eames chair, but the universe rewards the courageous. She’s returned to the team she loves at Sears Holdings and soon moves into a new apartment in the same beloved Brooklyn loft building…but with a firm commitment to giving back. Her Gemini twin selves seek beauty in the ethereal and the earthly, bound in loving sentiment by both. Here’s a look into some of the things she holds dear:  1. Daydreaming. “Anyone who knows me knows that I love to daydream.” The daydreamer and her untitled painting. 2. G10 Camera. An avid photographer and sentimental documentarian of life experience, she is seldom without it. The Canon Power Shot G10. 3. Tulum. It has become an annual ritual to visit the pristine beaches of the Yucatán peninsula for her late spring birthday or new year retreat. She looks forward to seeing the friends she’s made at Sueños Tulum, the eco-friendly Mexican resort. 4. Bali Rituals.  Fueling her pre-existing “incense junkieness,” she took on the clarifying morning practices. “They get up in the morning, gather the frangipani, the plumeria and they offer something to their gods whether it’s a Ritz cracker or a cigarette. And they light the incense and meditate with the Buddhas and the Lakshmis…” Aromatic, personal, spiritual. 5. Fragrant Florals. Her favorites are peony, tuberose and lilac. She tries to buy herself flowers once a week. She enjoys making her own arrangements.

6. Browsing Interior Magazines. Elle Decoration UK, Living etc. and the decor8 blog, Love these!” For inspiration…

7. Sasha Dolls. Introduced in the 1960’s by Swiss artist Sasha Morgenthaler, the dolls were intended to depict a universal image of childhood. Dianne Robinson made certain that her girls played with dolls of varying skin tones, not just the blonde, blue-eyed offerings that lined most shelves at that time. Now collectible, the dolls can be found through sources like Ebay. Cora; and Palila from Allegro Melody Art Dolls.

8. My Mayan and Aztec Calender Necklaces.  “I like having the sun close to my heart.”

You rarely see her without one of the two.

9. My Sketch Books. Repositories of her incredible talent, they hold her inspirations, her imaginings and creative intentions.

The fruits of her Jaipur musings.

10. Daddy and Me at Dulles.  One of a couple of treasured photos with her Vietnam-bound father. “I look at that photo and thank the creator for the opportunity to experience my father and have him nurture me to who I am today.  I don’t have to make up stories or daydream about who he was because he came home.”

First Lieutenant Harry G. Robinson III returned from Vietnam with a Bronze Star and a Purple Heart to raise a beautiful family with wife Dianne and establish a long and illustrious career.


Africa in the Picture VII
May 26, 2010

Considering our ravaged earth…

Vintage travel posters make for wonderful home decor.  Salvaging discarded materials, London-based textile/jewelry designer Anita Quansah creates showstopping, earth-friendly pieces such as the “Nava” …  A fabulous trench of vintage fabric, pattern play and bold accessories from Duro Olowu for Spring. (photo from

Taking its name from the Swahili “shed light on Africa,” Angaza Afrika: African Art Now is a wonderful compendium illuminating the world of contemporary African Art on the continent and its diaspora featuring such artists as El Anatsui of Ghana, whose hammered bottle caps are woven together to create magical dripping wall sculptures.

Performance artist and textile sculptor Nick Cave is best known for his Soundsuits found materials (one of which is a recent acquisition of the Brooklyn Museum on view on the 4th floor until January 2012) Click for more on the incredible exhibition Nick Cave: Meet Me at the Center of the Earth at UCLA’s Fowler Museum through May 30th.

…the largest presentation of work by Chicago-based artist Nick Cave, featuring thirty-five of his Soundsuits—multi-layered, mixed-media sculptures named for the sounds made when the “suits” are worn. Reminiscent of African, Caribbean and other ceremonial ensembles as well as of haute couture, Cave’s work explores issues of transformation, ritual, myth and identity. His virtuosic constructions incorporate yarn, sequins, bottle caps, vintage toys, rusted iron sticks, hair, and more. Mad, humorous, visionary, glamorous and unexpected, the Soundsuits are created from scavenged ordinary materials that Cave re-contextualizes into extraordinary works of art. – The Fowler Museum

Brooklyn-based Mar y Sol (formerly known as Mad Imports) partners with artisans in Madagascar and Kenya to create handmade accessories handbags in renewable materials. The clutch shown here is a zebra-striped variation on the popular style “Opal” and designed exclusively for Brooklyn boutique, Epaulet … Somali Canadian hip-hop artist K’naan whose popular”Wavin’ Flag” is the anthem for this year’s World Cup created a charity version with Young Artists for Haiti to benefit to Haitian earthquake relief. (Photo: Akram.)

Visionary artist Xenobia Bailey is examining new ways to reduce waste by seeing the potential for beauty in refuse and putting her funky alchemist’s touch on those things we regularly discard.  See her zero-waste puppet theater, eco-chic wedding adornments and more on her blog (Photo: Jeffrey Machtig courtesy of John Michael Art Center 2009) … El Anatsui, mentioned above, showed early this year at Jack Shainman in his wonderful second solo exhibition at the gallery.  A hardbound catalogue is available.

Africa in the Picture VI
May 22, 2010

On a rainy day in 2007, Femi Kuti and his band rocked Central Park Summerstage to an undeterred, packed audience.  The rain eventually subsided, and like his father before him, gave a rousing performance jamming for nearly three hours.  Nigerian photographer/cinematographer Henry Adebonojo struck by the resemblance of Femi to his late, great father Fela Kuti captured this moment (check out my WordPress stablemate Henry’s new blog, Fewer Words)  … In Pieter Hugo’s 2006 portrait, Morris Toe of Monrovia, Liberia shows a stoic maturity which belies his youth.

Though York’s Shona Gallery specializes in Shona works from Zimbabwe, they offer an assortment of African artifacts from throughout the continent, such as the Ivorian Colonial figure shown here … The prevailing African influence in fashion is evident in the towering pump from Dries Van Noten … Kudos to one of my favorite magazines, Arise, on their recent award as Magazine Launch of the Year for 2009 by the Association of Publishing Agencies. So well deserved, covering “fashion. music. culture. polity.” of African and African descended people, the London-based publication is tight. The content and art direction are strong and the mag is printed on sturdy paper stock to best showcase the striking photography.

I just had to show some love for my Senufo stool from Côte d’Ivoire.  Such a clean, simple form carved from a single block of wood. Such an adaptable piece of furniture/art … Having spent several years collecting textiles during travels to Kenya, Max Osterweis launched SUNO in 2008.  Designed in New York, the garments are created in Kenyan fabrics by Kenyan artisans paid a fair wage.

One of nearly ninety African garments acquired by The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, this 19th century cowrie-embellished Kuba cloth garment, feels very modern …  Evoking the  Côte d’Ivoire of her 1970’s childhood,  Marguerite Abouet’s Aya of Yop City series of graphic novels chronicles the often comical goings-on of level-headed, studious teen, Aya and her friends and family.  The lively illustrations by Clément Oubrerie bring the characters of Yopougon “Yop City” to life.  Though three English-language editions have been published thus far, the series, written in French is now up to book five.

Bayetou, the Kuba-inspired recumbent chair by Bibi Seck and Ayse Birse was one the highlights of M’Afrique, the show curated by African American product designer Stephen Burks for Moroso Italy …  Brooklyn born Maya A. Lake’s Boxing Kitten line of “ethnic rockabilly” dresses and separates gained widespread exposure when Alicia Keys and Beyonce wore some pieces in the “Put It In a Love Song” video.  Other celeb fans include Erykah Badu, Fergie and choreographer Fatima Robinson. Here, music video director Melina Matsoukas wears the Carmen top and Kitt shorts.

Obliquely Oscar
March 11, 2010

Last Sunday, the annual self-congratulatory cavalcade of film folk that is the Academy Awards marched through my mind conjuring its own parade of disparate thoughts. In a photographic stream of consciousness, the following images tangentially reference some of the winning films.

The Hurt Locker (Best Picture, Director, Original Screenplay, Film Editing, Sound Editing + Sound Mixing)

Mimicking Delft porcelain, Seattle artist Charles Krafft’s Peace is Fragile grenade found itself center stage in a 2006 Saatchi + Saatchi-designed ad for the United Nations.

The Blind Side (Best Actress)

Taking his cue from American sport, Alexander Wang produced a Spring collection rife with nods to the gridiron like shoulder pads and lace-up pants.  Rihanna has rocked a linebacker dress, maybe Sandy B will snag a football clutch just because.

Crazy Heart (Best Actor +  Song)

I have, for years ogled the exquisite guitars-in-the-making displayed in the window of William del Pilar, Jr’s. modest Atlantic Avenue storefront. A few months back, I was delighted to finally meet the second generation luthier who has been creating masterpieces of rare woods longer than I have been alive.  He played for me, with consistently pure tone, demonstrating the efficacy of his patented resonant bracing system.  With his passion for music, artisanal excellence and feeding the spirit, this beautiful soul is a Brooklyn treasure.

Precious: Based on the Novel “Push” by Sapphire (Best Supporting Actress +  Adapted Screenplay)

Diamond and platinum cocktail ring, Neil Lane.

A black diamond, looming beautifully large.  Enough said.

Inglourious Basterds (Best Supporting Actor)

Colonel Hans Landa’s gargantuan calabash pipe provided an early sight-gag and an indication of the scope of his power.  Similarly Holmesian pipes, are available new from Vienna’s Strambach Pipes and vintage rarities are offered on Ebay.

Avatar (Best Art Direction, Cinematography + Visual Effects)

Hand crafted of wood, silk and naturally molted feathers, the wings and arrows of Fredericks and Mae,  call to mind the beauty of Na’vi archery.

Star Trek (Best Makeup)

Wi Te Manewha, 1882 oil on canvas, Gottfried Lindauer

Though remarkable prosthetics probably garnered the gold man for makeup, notably the Romulans’ facial tattoos most likely owe their genesis to traditional ta moko of New Zealand’s Maori people. I’ve long been enamored of the noble Maori portraits of eighteenth century Czech painter Gottfried Lindauer.

The Young Victoria (Best Costume Design)

Like the gilded embroideries used in the ballroom scene of Sandy Powell’s third costume win, the final collection of the brilliant, late designer Alexander McQueen boasted many looks featuring the “gilty” pleasure of passementerie.

Music by Prudence (Best Documentary Feature)

Mbira maker Samuel Mujuru’s personal instrument.

Though I’d been introduced to the Kalimba (a westernized variant of the mbira) on vinyl by Maurice White as a child, my introduction to true Zimbabwean music came in adulthood by my friend Saki.  It was a performance of Thomas Mapfumo and Oliver Mtukudzi would soon follow. Just a year or so ago, I had the unique opportunity to enjoy, thisclose, the glory of Mbira master Stella Chiweshe at an intimate backyard party.  I look forward to more music of Zim in the telling of Prudence and her bandmates’ story in May on HBO.

Up (Best Animated Feature + Original Score)

Festooned with colorful Venetian glass, smoky quartz, amethyst, Peruvian chalcedony and turquoise, rock crystal and jade, Dorian Webb’s magical Tutto Tutto is more than a lighting fixture, it’s a work of [exhibited] art. The opulent wrought iron chandelier, grand in scale, lures the eye skyward up nine feet of cascading tendrils.  It is one of many chandeliers (in all sizes) and sconces available at the designer’s current lighting sale. Click to download catalog.

Logorama (Best Animated Short)

From the “Priceless” series: MasterCard “Supermarket Icons” 30-second TV spot, produced by McCann-Erickson, 2005.

MasterCard’s Super Bowl XXXIX commercial was a nostalgic reunion with the brand mascots we grew up with but a gun-toting Ronald McDonald taking Bob’s Big Boy hostage is what brought the Oscar home in 2010.
To view Logorama, click here.

Brooklyn Moment #2: Mermaid Parade
June 25, 2008

We disembarked for our own Poseidon Adventure…

Brooklyn’s answer to Mardi Gras melds the lore of the sea with campy good humor and sideshow freakishness. The annual Coney Island USA Mermaid Parade is yet another thing I love about this borough. I went with my seven year-old friend and fellow Piscean Aria, for her first-ever walk in a parade.

As we queued up for the promenade down Surf Avenue, this lovely woman gifted Aria with a beautiful Murex shell.

Inspired by the Superheroes exhibit she helped create at The Met, this woman imagined Wonder Woman in mermaid form.

A little seaside zanyness…

Heels on wheels.

Jason and his Neptunaut.

My favorite of the day, besides the sweet-faced Aria, was the gloriously airbrushed couple who strode elegantly through the admiring crowds.

April 10, 2008

At long last, I launch my website, today! Designed by the excellent DUMBO-based design studio Chemistry, the site presents my work in a clean, modern and easily navigable format. I’m soooo excited.